snail in the bathroom

Last weekend it rained quite a bit. I got up in the middle of the night, went to the bathroom, and saw this little guy waiting for me on the tissue box which is on the toilet.

I tried to pull him off (gently) but his suckers were too sticky. So, I put the box of tissues outside on the porch near the garden and let him make his way off.

Also, thus far two other interesting animals/insects have laid themselves to die on my front stoop -- a praying mantis (which I've saved for my husband who likes them) and a little lizard who was missing his front left leg/arm. I think he must have fallen off the roof in the rainstorm and his poor leg got torn off. I tried to keep him but he was stinky after a few days.

scenes from the swaziland national museum

Here are some pictures from the Swaziland National Museum. I think seeing the curiosity and happiness of travelers/visitors and students alike reminds us why museums are important places. Some people say that Swaziland does not need a museum, mainly because its cultural traditions are alive and well. Having been here for only five weeks, I can attest to that statement. On the other hand, life is changing for Swazis, and a central repository for culture (material culture, but also oral culture if possible) might be much important in the future than some believe.

at a swazi orphanage

Hi all -- Christine and I spent a wonderful afternoon at an orphanage in the northeast of Swaziland last Saturday. One of the best things about Swaziland is that it is easy to meet people. Everyone, Swazis and ex-pats alike, are friendly and willing to talk. One day I went to the Mountain Inn, in search of a good Internet connection. This gal Margie was also there and we started talking (Americans gravitate towards each other).

Turns out, she is from San Diego and was a social worker. She is a Christian, and was called to Swaziland two years ago and has been here since. She found this orphanage, and has participated in its growth. Today the orphanage has reached its maximum size, with about 50 children -- babies, toddlers, youngsters and teenagers. As Margie explained it, the folks who run the orphanage, Kallie and Charmain Coertzen, started with nothing. They do not ask for anything (monetary donations or otherwise), but things come their way. As many Christians believe, these things happen because God is watching out for them and helping
them.

This little orphanage grew, in the past few years, mostly due to the HIV/AIDS deaths, and some of the children are HIV positive. But, though they have added new buildings, and continue to work the land, there remains a family atmosphere. Margie believes, probably quite rightly, that very few orphanages can compare to the standards of health and loving care shown to these children.

Margie herself is in the process of adopting a 4-year old Swazi boy, though the baby she holds in the first
photo is Angelique. She came to the orphanage undernourished and still shows some signs of slow development. But, the "little angel" has made great progress. Margie is her primary caregiver.

The magogo in the last picture is cooking a big pot of pap (or papish), which is the staple food of Swaziland. It is a very finely ground maize, which is boiled and stirred. If Swazis have money, they will have a piece of meat with pap, such a chicken livers, or beef. Pap is very plain, but makes an excellent accompanient to dishes. I eat it everyday because I love the taste and texture. Swazis eat it because of the taste, and the healthiness of it, but also because it is very inexpensive. A large helping of pap costs about 20 cents in American money.

indian ocean coastline of Maputo, Mozambique

Last week my co-worker Bheki (you pronounce "k" as "g"in Siswati) had to go to Maputo -- the capital of the country of Mozambique -- to pick up a visa for the SNTC's CEO. He kindly asked me along, and we drove through the border post in the northeast corner of Swaziland, got our visas to enter into Mozambique and then drove into the city.

Mozambicans speak Portuguese, though there almost everyone in the city also speaks English. Bheki drove out of city, along the coast, so that I could see the Indian Ocean. The tide was out very very far, but by the end of the afternoon, the beaches were full
of people swimming.

Mozambique was/is known for its seafood and I did have a giant fish for lunch. The name of which I couldn't figure out - even though the waiter was telling us. Unfortunately, the waters have been overfished, and the prawns (shrimps) are much smaller than they used to be.

The Indian Ocean is only about 40 km (a three hour drive) from Swaziland. The country is much different and the cities of Mozambique are very crowded, congested with traffic and fairly dirty. But there are very good, big markets (where Bheki bought bags of cashews, another Mozambican specialty), many museums, and of course, the ocean.

visiting a friend's homestead

These pictures show you a typical Swazi homestead. On the way back from Maputo, Mozambique, Bhegi-Themba Thusi, one of my co-workers at the museum, asked if we could stop at his family's homestead. I was very happy to meet his parents and to see his homestead -- which is the center of family life for Swazis. His parents, seen in the first image, raised 8 children here, and continue to care for the youngest family members, including grandchildren.

Bhegi's father is a farmer and they own cattle -- which is the traditional way for southern Africans to gain wealth (and status). Cattle is absolutely one of the most important parts of Swazi life -- respect is garnered through the number of cattle you own, and droughts and other calamities can wreck havoc with your ability to feed your children when cattle are sick or die.

On the homestead there are ALWAYS chickens and roosters, and now, because it is spring, there are also chicks to be seen everywhere. Chickens and the like are allowed to roam free, though they have roosts in the form of handwoven baskets which are placed high off the ground so dogs, cats and other scavengers cannot get them and their eggs.

Also on a traditional Swazi homestead is another building -- always round with either a thatched or wooden roof. This is the "magogo's" house, which means grandmother. Here, women sit for conversation and important family events, such as marriage are discussed.

The cat I am holding was such a sweetie. The Thusis let him stay because he did not bother the chicks (apparently an earlier cat was "taken out" because he kept attacking chicks). This cat just laid himself on my shoulder. It was all I could do to not take him home with me. You see in Magogo Thusi's left hand a woven mat -- even though we appeared at the homestead unexpectdly, she presented me with three of these handwoven mats and also gave us cold juice, which we were grateful for as it was hot day and a 3-hour hot drive.

Bhegi's parents were generous and very kind -- just as he is.

spring in swaziland

Swaziland is located below the Equator, which means that its season are the opposite of the seasons in the northern hemisphere -- where Connecticut is located. So, as much of the United States enters into fall and winter, Swaziland and southern Africa is entering into spring and summer.

The weather can change dramatically and quickly. So far I have experienced very hot sunny days, very cold rainy days and very windy days. Many Swazis say that their weather is changing as compared to years' past...the same commentary you hear from Connecticut people!


The rock you see in the upper photo is called "Executioner's Rock." This rock was reserved for royal family members who committed a crime -- and they were killed (pushed?) off this rock.

This beautiful tree is called a Jacaranda. The leaves begin life purple -- it is an amazing site amidst all the green that is starting to sprout here in the Middle and High Velds. I was commenting on how lovely these Jacaranda trees were, and was told by a naturalist that they are actually an invasive species, and are removed from nature reserves and parks.

traditional swazi wedding

Last weekend I was invited to attend a traditional Swazi wedding. A SNTC staff member named Wisdom was getting married the traditional way -- though he and his wife had already had a modern or Christian wedding and had an infant son.

Swazis can choose to get married in multiple ways. One is way is the traditional or polygamous wedding, which the royal family practices and therefore much of the country as well. Another way is the modern or Church wedding, where Swazi brides where white, have bridemaids and do the usual western things.


Some Swazis like Wisdom choose to have both, thus praticing their Christian beliefs while holding on to their historic practices. Wisdom said he did this second wedding for his family, especially for the older folks who think this is the "only" way for Swazis to get married. Thus, some Swazis like Wisdom will not take multiple wives because it goes against their Christian beliefs.

In the first image you see the bride surrounded by the older women of the clan, while in the second image you see the men, who dance, whoop and make exaggerated movements to the women elders -- thus proclaiming their virility and ability to protect. The day was so cold, but the smile on everyone's faces made the hours all worth the wait.

More images from the sacred site of Nfungeni

Here are two more images from that sacred area near Nfungeni. On this rocky outcropping are many sites that the Swazis have used as sources for stories and history.

QUESTION: What do you think the Swazis see in the image at the left?

And, in the image below, what you see are pottery sherds left between rocks, near where Swazis in the past cooked. The guide told us that women worked in several areas on the outcropping, and there are still pot sherds and lots of debitage (stone flakes from making projectile points).


As noted in another post, I expressed my enthusiasm for creating a cultural heritage site that the local people care for by leading guided tours and keeping all proceeds from admission. But, I also am worried that all of the archaeology examples will "disappear." All people -- myself included -- have a natural inclination to pick things up off the ground and stick them in their pockets. Despite warning signs or human eyes watching.

How can we open sites like this? The SNTC does not have enough money for staffing, especially in rural areas.