Swazi museum objects

Examples of Swazi functional works of art -- a headrest in a Parisian museum, and a box, both carved of wood. The Fulbrighter who came after me, Prof. Bill Dewey, made these cultural objects the center of his study time in Swaziland. If you visit an exhibit of Egyptian civilization, it is easy enough to see a headrest (they have King Tut's too). A traditional and useful object that many people still use.

Ethiopia

These pictures are from my trip to Ethiopia. Amazing country. Went to participate on a field expedition in the Hadar region. Far, far away from urban centers. Eight hour drive to the site, where tribal people still live (and fight each other). The Afar, Muslims who are so tall, and dark, carry guns and were our "protectors." Best part about the week? Finding a hand axe that is now part of the collections of the National Museum in Addis Ababa. If you want to hear the story about how I found it, I am always ready to tell it!

snail in the bathroom

Last weekend it rained quite a bit. I got up in the middle of the night, went to the bathroom, and saw this little guy waiting for me on the tissue box which is on the toilet.

I tried to pull him off (gently) but his suckers were too sticky. So, I put the box of tissues outside on the porch near the garden and let him make his way off.

Also, thus far two other interesting animals/insects have laid themselves to die on my front stoop -- a praying mantis (which I've saved for my husband who likes them) and a little lizard who was missing his front left leg/arm. I think he must have fallen off the roof in the rainstorm and his poor leg got torn off. I tried to keep him but he was stinky after a few days.

scenes from the swaziland national museum

Here are some pictures from the Swaziland National Museum. I think seeing the curiosity and happiness of travelers/visitors and students alike reminds us why museums are important places. Some people say that Swaziland does not need a museum, mainly because its cultural traditions are alive and well. Having been here for only five weeks, I can attest to that statement. On the other hand, life is changing for Swazis, and a central repository for culture (material culture, but also oral culture if possible) might be much important in the future than some believe.

at a swazi orphanage

Hi all -- Christine and I spent a wonderful afternoon at an orphanage in the northeast of Swaziland last Saturday. One of the best things about Swaziland is that it is easy to meet people. Everyone, Swazis and ex-pats alike, are friendly and willing to talk. One day I went to the Mountain Inn, in search of a good Internet connection. This gal Margie was also there and we started talking (Americans gravitate towards each other).

Turns out, she is from San Diego and was a social worker. She is a Christian, and was called to Swaziland two years ago and has been here since. She found this orphanage, and has participated in its growth. Today the orphanage has reached its maximum size, with about 50 children -- babies, toddlers, youngsters and teenagers. As Margie explained it, the folks who run the orphanage, Kallie and Charmain Coertzen, started with nothing. They do not ask for anything (monetary donations or otherwise), but things come their way. As many Christians believe, these things happen because God is watching out for them and helping
them.

This little orphanage grew, in the past few years, mostly due to the HIV/AIDS deaths, and some of the children are HIV positive. But, though they have added new buildings, and continue to work the land, there remains a family atmosphere. Margie believes, probably quite rightly, that very few orphanages can compare to the standards of health and loving care shown to these children.

Margie herself is in the process of adopting a 4-year old Swazi boy, though the baby she holds in the first
photo is Angelique. She came to the orphanage undernourished and still shows some signs of slow development. But, the "little angel" has made great progress. Margie is her primary caregiver.

The magogo in the last picture is cooking a big pot of pap (or papish), which is the staple food of Swaziland. It is a very finely ground maize, which is boiled and stirred. If Swazis have money, they will have a piece of meat with pap, such a chicken livers, or beef. Pap is very plain, but makes an excellent accompanient to dishes. I eat it everyday because I love the taste and texture. Swazis eat it because of the taste, and the healthiness of it, but also because it is very inexpensive. A large helping of pap costs about 20 cents in American money.

indian ocean coastline of Maputo, Mozambique

Last week my co-worker Bheki (you pronounce "k" as "g"in Siswati) had to go to Maputo -- the capital of the country of Mozambique -- to pick up a visa for the SNTC's CEO. He kindly asked me along, and we drove through the border post in the northeast corner of Swaziland, got our visas to enter into Mozambique and then drove into the city.

Mozambicans speak Portuguese, though there almost everyone in the city also speaks English. Bheki drove out of city, along the coast, so that I could see the Indian Ocean. The tide was out very very far, but by the end of the afternoon, the beaches were full
of people swimming.

Mozambique was/is known for its seafood and I did have a giant fish for lunch. The name of which I couldn't figure out - even though the waiter was telling us. Unfortunately, the waters have been overfished, and the prawns (shrimps) are much smaller than they used to be.

The Indian Ocean is only about 40 km (a three hour drive) from Swaziland. The country is much different and the cities of Mozambique are very crowded, congested with traffic and fairly dirty. But there are very good, big markets (where Bheki bought bags of cashews, another Mozambican specialty), many museums, and of course, the ocean.

visiting a friend's homestead

These pictures show you a typical Swazi homestead. On the way back from Maputo, Mozambique, Bhegi-Themba Thusi, one of my co-workers at the museum, asked if we could stop at his family's homestead. I was very happy to meet his parents and to see his homestead -- which is the center of family life for Swazis. His parents, seen in the first image, raised 8 children here, and continue to care for the youngest family members, including grandchildren.

Bhegi's father is a farmer and they own cattle -- which is the traditional way for southern Africans to gain wealth (and status). Cattle is absolutely one of the most important parts of Swazi life -- respect is garnered through the number of cattle you own, and droughts and other calamities can wreck havoc with your ability to feed your children when cattle are sick or die.

On the homestead there are ALWAYS chickens and roosters, and now, because it is spring, there are also chicks to be seen everywhere. Chickens and the like are allowed to roam free, though they have roosts in the form of handwoven baskets which are placed high off the ground so dogs, cats and other scavengers cannot get them and their eggs.

Also on a traditional Swazi homestead is another building -- always round with either a thatched or wooden roof. This is the "magogo's" house, which means grandmother. Here, women sit for conversation and important family events, such as marriage are discussed.

The cat I am holding was such a sweetie. The Thusis let him stay because he did not bother the chicks (apparently an earlier cat was "taken out" because he kept attacking chicks). This cat just laid himself on my shoulder. It was all I could do to not take him home with me. You see in Magogo Thusi's left hand a woven mat -- even though we appeared at the homestead unexpectdly, she presented me with three of these handwoven mats and also gave us cold juice, which we were grateful for as it was hot day and a 3-hour hot drive.

Bhegi's parents were generous and very kind -- just as he is.